The first of a two-part, on-the-road series about the natural - and a few man-made - attractions of the much under-visited Northeast
By: KARNJANA KARNJANATAWE
Published: 1/01/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
During the all-too-short cool season, my partner and I often flee Bangkok and head to the far North. But this year, just for a change, we decided to explore a section of the Northeast (aka Isan) that lies along the banks of the mighty Mekong.
Wildflowers near Soi Sawan Waterfall in Pha Taem National Park.
Our journey started in Ubon Ratchathani, 630km northeast of Bangkok. This province is home to the country's largest collection of prehistoric rock paintings which are thought to be 3,000 to 4,000 years old. Every year they attract scores of curious tourists to the cliffs of Pha Taem, part of a national park of the same name in Khong Chiam district, 95km from the provincial capital. There are more than 300 paintings here in all, grouped in four main locations.
Most visitors can manage the one-kilometre walk from the first group to the second, which is by far the largest concentration. Here are images of an elephant, storage jars, fish of all sizes, and human handprints. In the third group, 865m farther on, are lots more handprints plus geometric designs and paintings of farming activities. The highlight of the fourth group is a stylised representation of a woman with long arms and legs wearing a triangular skirt. Her long face is shown in profile and looks rather like the silhouette of an alien from some sci-fi film. To complete the loop one needs to do a circa-4km hike but, as a park official explained, the fourth group is not so popular since it is only accessible via a rather slippery trial. Which is rather fortunate, he observed, since it means that at least one of the sites remains relatively untouched.
A rock resembling a mushroom in Mukdahan National Park
Despite the cool weather, a plethora of wildflowers were in full bloom here, carpeting some 40 rai of meadowland around Soi Sawan Waterfall with their lively hues. After parking at the waterfall (points of interest in the park are far from one another, so some form of private transport will be needed), we walked a couple of hundred metres to the beginning of a signposted trail. Don't be tempted to try and find a quick way to climb down to the falls, though; just follow the breathtakingly beautiful path which snakes through the forest and the meadows dotted with masses of little blooms, the names of which are indicated on signs written in both Thai and Latin.
This is one of favourite places of HRH the Queen. She visits often at this time of year and has given names to some of the flowering plants here, including the purple-petaled dusita (Utricularia delphinioides), the yellow soi suwanna (Utricularia bifida), the white manee theva (Eriocaulon smitinandii), tip kasorn (Utricularia minutissima) with its mauve-and-white petals plus sarat chanthorn (Burmannia coelestris), also a shade of purple.
A fisherman on his long-tail boat plies the Mekong; Khong Chiam can be seen in the background.
After a couple of hours exulting in this floral wonderland and taking plenty of photos, we decided we'd better make tracks before dusk and find somewhere to spend the night. There are lots of resorts and cheaper accommodation options in and around Khong Chiam but we were fortunate to find a little gem of a guesthouse called Ban Pak Mon built right next to where the Mekong and one of its tributaries, the Mon, meet.
Back in Khong Chiam you can hire a long-tail boat (300 baht a trip) to take you to the confluence of the two rivers, where one can distinguish the Mekong by the colour of its waters - a reddish, earth tone. This boat will also take you to Singsamphan, a village on the Laotian side of the Mekong across from Khong Chiam. In this tranquil settlement of wooden houses surrounded by bamboo fences is a small market selling consumer goods imported from China such as wristwatches, bags and liquor. The entrance fee to the village is 10 baht and the boat will wait for you at the pier until you've finished your shopping.
Cantaloupe—a real bargain at 100 baht for three kilogrammes!
The next morning, we drove back to Ubon Ratchathani and took Highway 212, reaching Mukdahan about two hours later. This is linked to Sawannakhet in Laos by the second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (the original one being in Nong Khai) and if you want a aerial view of the town, head for Hor Kaew. This observation tower on Highway 2034 is about the height of a seven-storey building and offers panoramic views of Mukdahan and its environs.
You take the same highway to get to Mukdahan National Park (formerly known as Phu Pha Thoeb). It's a mere 17km to the southwest heading towards Don Tan. Included by the TAT in its "Unseen Thailand" campaign a couple of years ago, this protected area features some peculiar rock formations, located only 20m or so from the tourist information centre. A park official told us that the outcrops are thought to date back 120 million years and were submerged for aeons before geological activity raised them to their current elevation. Weathered by the elements, they have assumed some weird and wonderful shapes and with the exercise of a little imagination you can make out a satellite dish, an airplane, a crocodile, camel and what could be a crown.
A garlic-and-shallot vendor at the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge in Mukdahan.
Wildflowers were much in evidence when we visited in early December and in fact the provincial authorities promote the park at this time of year as a place to view the aforementioned dusita in bloom. There are waterfalls and caves here, too, but they are best seen at the height of the rainy season.
Back in Mukdahan we made a stop to explore the Indochina Market which stays opens well after dark. The stalls and shops there sell a plethora of goods from China, Vietnam, Thailand and Laos including dried fruit, unusual snacks, chocolates, dresses, other garments plus heaps of household items.
Leaving town again we took a minor country road which follows the course of the Mekong. We were heading for Nakhon Phanom but decided to make a diversion to check out Kaeng Krabao, an islet in the river. But it transpired that there was nothing much to see or do there, apart from hang out with the locals and enjoy the peace and quiet.
A trishaw driver waits for passengers outside the Indochina Market in Mukdahan town.
Back on the main road again, we proceeded to Phra That Phanom, the most revered Buddhist temple in the province due to its antiquity. The main chedi, which is said to contain a relic of the Lord Buddha, is 57m high and the four-metre-tall spire atop it is made of gold. Believed to have been erected some time in the 12th century, and now only 500m from the bank of the Mekong, this pagoda collapsed in 1975 after many days of torrential rainfall. The Fine Arts Department rebuilt it, following the original design and using money donated by local people.
From there we took Highway 223 to Sakhon Nakhon, then followed Highway 22 to Udon Thani. Along the way we encountered many roadside stands, some selling sweet, wonderfully refreshing cantaloupe for ridiculously low prices.
After so many hours behind the wheel we were more than happy to kick back, relax and stay overnight at Udon Thai, one of the major commercial centres of the Northeast and the 11th biggest province in that region.
Phra That Phanom, the most revered temple in Nakhon Phanom.
‘Dusita’.
‘Tip kasorn’.
‘Soi suwanna’.
‘Ya namkang’.
‘Manee theva’.
‘Jok bo way’.
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